The next step for my Link costume is to make the scabbard to carry the sword around in. Unfortunately, while I had several Master Swords to start with from Thingiverse, a 3D model of the scabbard does not exist as far as I’ve found.
My 3D modeling skills are still very lacking, but without any other options, I have to give it a try. This is probably for the best as I’ll be able to make a scabbard that fits my sword perfectly.
While mine won’t be nearly as amazing as that one, I can do my best to make something that is still cool. This time I did all of my drawing right within 123D Design.
I was using a rough estimate of the size, as well as looking at the reference photo. I’m no artist, and I didn’t use any curves this time, but I think that it turned out alright. I had created the base shape of the scabbard first in 3D and drew this on top of it, but I hid that object for this screenshot. Next, I extruded the shapes in all of the right places and used the sword model to create the interior cutout to the correct size and scale.
I did a subtract of the sword cutout from the interior of the scabbard. The middle piece was where I was playing with curving the edges. As you can see, I missed the triforce logo and the cutouts for the strap to attach the scabbard to my back. I fixed that and added the rounded edges, and we end up with the completed scabbard model.
It looks pretty good, so it is time to prep for printing. This thing is huge, so it needs to be cut into many, many pieces. After exporting an STL and using Netfabb to cut the model, we end up with 11 individual pieces. This was from an earlier attempt where I cut it into 13 pieces, but I ended up cutting it into fewer later. I didn’t take a screenshot of that, but this gives you an idea.
One of the big lessons that I learned from printing the Master Sword was that lining up pieces to glue them together kinda sucks. I constantly doubted my alignment and I didn’t have a lot of time to get it perfectly aligned before the glue started to dry. I don’t want to deal with that here, so the answer is to create pegs and alignment holes so that the pieces just align themselves perfectly.
I created a small 1/2″ diameter peg that is 1/2″ long. After importing all of the cuts back into 123D Design, I placed the pegs at the cuts. I put 2 at each location and subtract it from each side. This allows us to print the pegs separately and keep each side of the pieces perfectly flat. I placed pegs at 3 out of 4 corners of each joint so that I don’t have to keep track of which side is left and right. That probably doesn’t matter anyway as this thing should be perfectly symmetrical, but I didn’t use the mirror capability as best as I could this time and I’m being cautious.
It is hard to see here in the STL mesh, but I circled the two peg holes on the right side of this piece. There is another in the top left corner, and the piece opposite has holes that match exactly.
Now everything is finally print ready. As much fun as 3D modeling is, seeing things start to take shape is much more enjoyable, so let’s start printing right away.
Here we have the first 2 pieces. I printed the pegs at 95% of the size that I used to cut the holes, but that proved to be a little tight and I had to do some sanding. I think I’ll keep 95% for the X and Y scale, but make the pegs shorter at 90% Z scale to make sure that they aren’t keeping things from connecting completely.
I bought several rolls of natural PLA from Push Plastic during their Black Friday sale. I’m trying this print in that material. I have to print at a much higher temperature than usual, but otherwise it is doing well. The clear material makes it look much rougher than it actually is, but I wanted to try printing with filament that wasn’t potentially affected by colorant. We will see how this experiment goes once I get to the painting stage.
That big roll is black felt tape for home theater projector screens. I recently got a projector and built a 115″ screen for it, and luckily I had this left over. Since I don’t want the paint on the sword to be scratched from sliding in and out of the scabbard, I will line the entire interior with this soft felt.
With everything sanded and connected, we will glue the first two pieces together. I used Plastruct Plastic Weld to fuse the pieces. Alignment was perfect, and I’m kicking myself for not doing it on the Master Sword.
With the felt in place, I can test this on the sword to see how it fits.
Looking good so far! Just 9 pieces left to print.
I’ll make another post next week once all of the pieces are printed. While my printer works for 8 to 10 hours per day printing the rest of this, I’ll be writing up the first build post about a bonus Legend of Zelda sword that was suggested by a reddit user: Link’s Fierce Diety Sword!